The large and surprisingly little known Guards Museum near Buckingham Palace has revamped some of its displays and starts with an unexpected story of soldier buttons.
The museum tells the history of the five regiments of Foot Guards, namely the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, and ranges from their foundation up to the modern day. So a visit is a walk through history as brightly coloured uniforms worn in combat were slowly supplanted by the far more practical combat wear worn today – saving the bright colours for ceremonial work.
Uniforms are packed with symbolism, and subtle details reveal a soldier’s regiment to those who know how to read them. As the introductory film explains, even the way buttons are arranged on a tunic carries meaning.
You’ll also discover why the oldest regiment is no longer considered the senior one in the pecking order. Suffice to say, the monarchy has a very long memory – and does not easily forgive.
There’s a huge amount to look at, but a few highlights include the infamous playing cards from the Iraq War, and later brilliantly satirised by Bruce Forsyth. I also spotted a medal struck by the German government to celebrate their expected victory in WWII.
There’s an impressive model of a steam train that carries the names of the regiments, and the stuffed head of a duck. It’ll make sense when you see it.
My research itch was particularly scratched by learning about two Quit Rents I hadn’t previously come across, which require a pair of dukes to present a flag to the monarch each year as rent for their homes. One can only imagine the consequences if a duke ever forgot—and the King decided to help himself to a new palace.
More grimly, the museum also confronts army discipline, including the use of the cat-o’-nine-tails. One punishment book lies open on 24 January 1799, recording a sentence of 200 lashes. The practice was finally abandoned by the army in 1850.
A new display towards the end of the exhibition includes the uniform worn by the Senior Drum Major of the Household Division – the last person to carry the EIIR cypher before it was replaced by that of King Charles III.
The opening video also recommends looking for the late Queen’s early uniform, but you can’t as it’s down the road at the King’s Gallery, being prepared for their spring exhibition.
As museums go, it’s surprisingly large – certainly larger than I remembered from my last visit – and so densely packed with information that you could easily spend a couple of hours here if you enjoy reading in depth.
If that’s overwhelming, it’s the sort of museum you can dip into at times and pick out new things to learn about.
The museum is open daily (except when it isn’t), but a visit during the week can also include the Guards Chapel, which is usually closed at weekends.
You can find the Guards Museum on Birdcage Walk, along the south side of St James’s Park. A short walk from Victoria or St James’s Park stations.
Museum entry
Adults: £10
Young Person (16-25 years – with proof of age): £7
Children (0-15 – must be accompanied by a paying adult): Free
Over 65s: £7
National Art Pass: Free
Ex-services (British): £7
Serving Personnel (British): £3
Serving Guard: Free
