As Guinness stakes its claim on central London with the opening of a new brewery, we look at five alternative — and some may say, more rewarding — stouts and porters to get you through the frostier months. All are brewed right here in London.
1. Railway Porter, Five Points
A stone cold classic, Five Points’ Railway Porter has, in my humble opinion, near-perfected the art of the London porter: its smokiness brings to mind a smouldering fire in an Edwardian station waiting room; a locomotive pummelling past in the driving rain. Or perhaps that’s just me. No matter; with its notes of bitter chocolate and roasted coffee, this is a robustly fortifying beer that’s best served in a jug by a crackling fire while delving into a Poirot mystery. Murder on the Orient Express, perhaps.
Drink it at: The Pembury Tavern (with a roast), or Five Points’ taproom, both in Hackney.
2. London Black, Anspach & Hobday
A true contender to Guinness’ crown, Anspach & Hobday’s inky offering is a nitro stout, like Guinness itself — served creamy, silky and chilled. It’s slightly less dry, however, with more pronounced coffee notes — and it’s no secret that London Black is held in high (or even higher) regard by acolytes of the official Black Stuff, including serial stout sipper, Jason Hackett, aka Prime Mutton. It is, as Prime Mutton might say, a creamer.
Drink it at: It’s all over the place — check out this map.
3. Export India Porter, Kernel
We might actually have chosen one of a number of delicious dark beers from beer mile GOATs Kernel, including the most Guinness-like, which is their Nitro Stout. However, for a truly memorable draught of coal-black beer, order their Export India Porter; a hypnotisingly tobacco-y/molasses-y brew that’s zested up with various strands of hop depending on the batch (at time of writing, the taproom’s pouring one spiked with citra). Of the beers on this list, this one’s on a pedestal all of its own.
Drink it at: Kernel’s Spa Road taproom in Bermondsey, where you can slurp it with Japanese gyoza, courtesy of Yagi Izakaya.
4. Eccles Stout, 40ft Brewery and St. JOHN
For the seventh year running, St. JOHN has teamed up with Walthamstow’s 40ft Brewery (well, their founder Steve Ryan is Irish) to produce a seasonal Eccles Stout — a liquid version of the northern pastries served up by the nose-to-tail restaurants/bijou bakeries sprinkled over London. We’ve not tasted this one yet (hiya 40ft Brewery/St. JOHN PR) but we’re promised an Irish-style stout invigorated with a puree of currants, nutmeg and allspice. Not one for the dry stout purists perhaps — but certainly an unctuous winter warmer to sip between now and spring — or to switch in for a dessert wine.
Drink it at: 40ft Brewery and St. JOHN restaurants, believe it or not.
5. Stout, Small Beer
Guinness 0.0% has taken the world by storm in recent years — and understandably so, as it tastes a heck of a lot like the full-blown thing. However, for a less commercial lower-buzz stout, Small Beer’s 2.5% offering — called simply Stout — boasts “roasted barley notes, balanced with a coffee aroma and a subtle milk chocolate sweetness”, and is a shoo-in for those who fancy a few wintry beers, without facing a blistering tundra of a hangover the following day.
Drink it at: Small Beer’s taproom on the Bermondsey beer mile, open on Fridays and Saturdays, and often hosting live music.
